Jun 11 2009
Macau isn’t Just for Gamblers
Which stereotype comes to mind when you think of Macau? A gambler’s paradise in Southeast Asia? That’s what most people think of when they envision Macau, and it was certainly the idea in my head before I went. Like a more humid version of Vegas, with Chinese people.
Actually, this perception of Macau is not wrong, necessarily. It is a gambler’s paradise, with the strip of glitzy casinos arranged along Av. de Amizade that includes the likes of Sands, MGM and Wynn. Some people even say someday Macau will overshadow Vegas, though honestly, I doubt that.
Anyway, I’m not much of a gambler, so I wasn’t sure what I’d find in Macau. But I knew from a tiny amount of online research that it was formerly a Portuguese colony, and that was enough to totally intrigue me. Portuguese wine meets Chinese cuisine? I’m hooked.
I woke up early from my Hong Kong hostel and headed in search of the ferry terminal, purchasing a ticket ($30 USD round trip) for the one-hour ferry to the “island of sin.” I discovered that Macau does have its moments of Las Vegas-ness, but it certainly boasts a much longer, more interesting array and mix of history, particularly because of the Portuguese colonization. There is wine-making tradition, plus a fabulous concoction of local Macanese and 18th century Portuguese cultures (all of the signs are in both Cantonese and Portuguese), inevitably sprouted from an array of African and Indian influences.
I wandered through the ruins of the Sao Paolo façade, the relics of what was once a grand European church, now nothing but a facing wall, as well as an old military bunker set upon a hill overlooking the city. Many small side streets offered a fascinating combination of architectural styles, both traditional Chinese and colonial European.
For lunch, I dined on Portuguese-style chicken and drank red wine made locally in Macau, and generally spent the day whiling away in the streets and corners of the island, finding small shops selling cured and sugared meats, tea, and every imaginable type of imported wine. For the hell of it, I took a peek in the small but growing number of ritzy casinos such as the Wynn and Sands, wasting about 12 HKD ($3) on slot machines.
In fairness, there really isn’t a lot to do in Macau unless you are a gambler. Conversely, if you’re into simple exploring-via-wandering, it’s a great place for a walk. The narrow winding streets and brightly colored buildings are a nod to its mix of heritages, and it’s a small enough place to be manageable as a day trip. It is also full of culinary delights.
Even if you aren’t up for hitting the slots, you should make it a point to check out the aging Casino Lisboa, Macau’s first and original gambling institution. You’ll love the kitschy flair on the outside and the musty smell of cigarettes and old wood inside.
You can get to Macau easily from either Hong Kong or the Chinese mainland at Zhuhai. Ferries operated by New World First Ferry Services go from Hong Kong China Ferry Terminal to Macau on the half hour everyday, and the fares can be paid in either HK Dollars or Macau OP. Interestingly, to gamble in the casinos, you generally need to have HK Dollars handy, as the Macau OP is not widely accepted (though easily exchangeable at bureaus de change all over the island). Accommodation really isn’t available outside of the hotel casinos, so if you’re looking for something on a budget, I’d make Macau a day trip and stay in Hong Kong!
